Showing posts with label day to day life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label day to day life. Show all posts

Friday, June 27, 2025

Water problems

We tried to fill the new reserve water tank today. It filled well. But, a few minutes later the tank toppled over!

foundation not level and/or firm enough


Let’s start at the beginning…

One of the challenges of living in Panama is that services we take for granted in Europe and largely in the US too, are not available 24/7. The internet via fibreoptics is the exception - that’s super reliable! We had onle 2outages in more than 2 years. It is faster and better than the internet connection my family has in rural Austria!

Well, electricity and water are a totally different story!

The water association that supplies the hostal sends water only every morning from about 6 to about 10. If you want to have water during the other hours of the day, you need to have a reserve water tank. And, if that tank is not placed about 2 m (7 ft) above the highest shower head, you also need a pump.

We had 2 such tanks installed, with a combined volume of about 2,100 liters (600 gallons). And we had a pump installed as well.

During the high season we had at times 15+ guests staying with us, plus us two, and 2 workers. It turned out, the capacity of these tanks was not enough! Every evening the tanks were empty, and during the night there was no water for the toilets or the sinks.

So we replaced the 1100 liter tank with a 1700 liter one, and tried to find space for more tanks. Instead of only the swimming pool tank, we placed two more drinking water tanks next to the pool, and created an involved system of tubes from and to where the original water supply was connected to the system in the house.

Tank farm - pool tank, plus two reserve water tanks

Reserve tanks on and under platform, pool tank to the left

With that, I thought, we should be ready for the next main season…

It’s the low season right now, and we have only one guest. So the original 1000 liter tank was quite sufficient. But, yesterday, our neighbor told us, that power company cut the power supply to the association’s water turbine! Apparently, they didn’t pay the electricity bill for 3 months! Today would be the last time we would receive water, until that situation is cleared up!

So we got up early this morning and started filling all our reserve tanks. 5400 liters (1400 gallons)! That should keep us hydrated for a week or so. Hopefully they will have figured out a solution to get the water flowing again by then!

Well, once the first tank was filled, it toppled over!🤦‍♂️ 1,700 kg leaning against the washing machine and the drain pipe from the second floor! 😫

Luckily, the other big tank wasn’t full yet, so I was able to find a way to pump the water from the damaged tank into the other one. Phew! But 1700 liters less in reserve… 🤷‍♂️😩

Let’s see if the damaged tank is salvageable. First, i need to put a concrete slap, to ensure nothing is moving anymore, then try to straighten out the tank’s side, and probably also adjust the tubing as the level has changed… 

There I was, thinking I would retire and have an easy life! 😝 Instead I ended up getting sucked into building two homes, and operating a hostal, plus helping run a restaurant! 🤦‍♂️🤪🤷‍♂️

Well, one day, maybe, retirement hits me too… 👍😊👍



Thursday, March 27, 2025

long time no post…

 I haven’t written anything in a long while! I guess, it was just too busy a time, the last few months…

With mid December the rainy season came to an end, and with the dry season came the season for tourists. On the northern hemisphere, this is the cold time, and many people flock to the tropics to avoid the ice and snow. 

By mid January we had our first dormitory, two of the toilets and one of the showers ready, so we decided to try to put it on Hostalworld and AirBnB. 

curtains to add privacy

very rustic, but functional

Whao! We very quickly got many guests! And, what is even more exciting, many of them extended several days beyond what they booked!

Even though we still were working on the second, larger dormitory, and there was a lot of dust and materials between the entrance to the floor and the ready dormitory, the feedback we received was very positive. 

upstairs are dormitories, downstairs a private room and dormitory for workers and volunteers

I tried to build in a way that allows us to get by without air condition and that folks are not locked away and isolated from the world. There are big spaces between the lattice that make up the wall on one side, and on the other side there’s more window than wall. We wrapped the whole house in mosquito netting, to ensure that no insects crawl around the people while sleeping. Still, there’s a breeze in the room all the time, and in the night the cool, fresh air fills the room. 

It all was an experiment. I am happy it worked out well! Most of our guests appreciate the design a lot. You can hear the sounds of the night like in a tent, but with the comfort of a real bed…

Having many guests in the hostal, often many guests also in the evenings at the restaurant, and continuing the work at the hostal, driving to the 2 1/2 hr away Santiago to find materials for the construction and ingredients for the restaurant, it was a super busy time!

There’s much more to talk about! I guess, I’ll write some more posts later…

sunset at the village beach


For now: greetings from lovely Santa Catalina, Soná, Veraguas, Panamá…

Tuesday, December 31, 2024

Trump - beloved the world around…

There’s a custom for new year’s celebrations in Panama to build a puppet and burn it around midnight on 31st of December.

Well, the people in Panama didn’t appreciate Trump’s last brainless comment in a string of such, where he mused about taking control of the Panama Canal. I happen to drive by a pair of such puppets today, ready to be burnt…


 

On first sight maybe amusing. But knowing how Panamanians feel about the canal, this is a clear signal to Trump about what would expect him should he be stupid enough (which he often proved to be) to try to follow through with this idea: All the people of Panama resisting! 

Panama has no military. But he would have to fight all the civilians! Men, women, and children! Would his military comply with his orders? Would turn them into war criminals right away… If they would, how would the Europeans react? How would Russia react to a break in Nato? How would the Chinese react? 

Many questions, which nobody at this time can answer for sure. But I hope we never have to find out in reality…

Sounds a bit sarcastic, but still: happy new year! Happy new quarter century!  



Sunday, December 15, 2024

who needs a spare tire…

I recently read somewhere that newer cars don’t have a spare tire anymore. Instead, there’s a pump you can plug in to the cigarette lighter. Well… Maybe that’s a useful alternative if you live in a place where roads are well maintained! Here in Panama a spare tire is absolutely necessary!

I don’t remember ever getting a flat tire while driving. Ever! In 40 years of driving! Well, no, in 39 years…In the last two years I needed to put on the spare tire 12 times! And replace - that means buy! - a new tire 8 times!!!

Why? Because the roads in Panama are treacherous! Even the autopistas around Panama City and the interamerican highway have many potholes, which haven’t been fixed in a long time. The heavy rains, of course, are not helping the situation, but wash out these holes further and further…

The side roads are sometimes even worse! And the last 17 km of the road to Santa Catalina are, well, a disgrace, to put it mildly! I had to replace the suspensions on both cars sine living here! Also a first in my life!

So, you drive on what appears to be a road in reasonably good condition, and suddenly there’s one of those monster holes! With experience (of which I have PLENTY!), it is often possible to avoid getting a tire hitting that hole by performing an emergency slalom move. But sometimes it’s not possible - because there’s a car next to you, or because there are several such holes and the best you can do is to choose the one (or ones) that are the smallest problem, or because you noticed the severity of the hole too late.

And when that happens, the tire (or two or four) get a big bang squeeze against the rim. And all too often the sidewall of the tire gets damaged.

Now, if you get a nail or screw in the running pane of the tire, it’s bad enough. But that’s very easy to fix! I, and many other drivers, carry the plugs in the car, to be able to fix that kind of problem anywhere along the road. Plus a 12V pump is also in both of my cars. 

But, when the tire‘s sidewall is damaged you cannot fix it reliably.

Thus, an otherwise brand new tire needs to be discarded and replaced!

That’s what happened to me already 8 times over the last 2 years…

Funny! I stopped buying higher quality - i. e. higher priced - tires, and am now getting the cheapest I can find! I wonder why? If I even have a choice - most of the little “llanterias” (tire repair stores) don’t carry much options; you’re lucky if they have any tire at the size you need! And if they don’t, well, then they vulcanize your tire’s sidewall and send you on your way…

Luckily, the speed limits here are very low, so even if the tire blows while you’re driving, you should be able to safely stop the car… At least, so I hope…

A related further adventure started about six weeks ago. A tire blew on my Prius, and as usual I put on the donut. However, on the way to the llateria - which is about 60 km (almost 40 miles), that 20 year old tire gave up the ghost, too… Hitchhiking with the broken original tire the rest of the way, and back, is standard procedure… The real problem, though, is: where to get a replacement donut?!?

Impossible to find a tire that fits on the donut rim. It’s not a radial tire, but the old fashioned technology. First I thought of visiting junk yards to find an old Prius from which I can source such a donut. But then it dawned on me, that it probably won’t be much of use anymore - being also 20 years old, and having been exposed to sun and rain for who knows how long in the yard…

Alright, so let me see if I find a rim that’s the same size as the regular rims, and put a regular tire on it. It won’t be possible to put that tire in the space where the donut is, because the donut has a slightly smaller diameter and is only about 2/3 of the width. But, hey, I just put it behind the driver seat. Being on the road here without a tire is highly unadvisable! And usually I don’t have more than 2 passengers anyhow… Panama helps you improve your improvisation skills!

About four weeks ago I found and bought such a rim, and had a tire installed on it, too. Yeay! I’m safe! At least so I thought…

Yesterday, on the way back from Panama City, I hit a monster hole again - on the Centennial Bridge across the Panama Canal (center lane, direction leaving the city, at the gap between the bridge and the bridgehead; for those who are travelling that stretch…). I stopped and checked, but all tires seemed to be ok… 

90 km down the road, however, one tire blew… again! 

Alright, first try to simply pump it up again - maybe it’s just the seal between rim and tire that leaked. No such luck! So, unpack the loaded car to get at the car-jacks - the Prius is so low I need to lift it in stages using two hydraulic jacks - take wheel with torn tire off, put on the new rim…

But, when the spare wheel was on, it turns out that the nuts’ outside diameter is larger than the holes on that damn “pretty” rim!!!

So back to hitchhicking, buying new tire, hitchhiking back, taking new rim off and store it, and putting on wheel with new tire… 

And later trying to find nuts whose inner diameter fits the bolts, and whose outer diameter fits the holes on the rim. Now, the nut loosing tool doesn’t fit anymore either! So need to buy a socket that serves as adaptor between the fancy nuts and the loosening tool… And find a good spot in the car to carry these items around, for when the next tire gives up the ghost…

I’m hoping, that new spare wheel actually will serve its purpose… we’ll see…


Tuesday, September 24, 2024

rain, rain, rain - this time in Panama!

Well, rainy season it is! The last week and a half we had A LOT of rain. When we came back from Chiriquí we found the restaurant flooded. After driving most of the day, we spent the evening cleaning out the flood.

the soil in the dining terrace floor already told the story

the space with the bar is the lowes part of the house - today a pool, a muddy one


The same night, it flooded again!

And finally, on Saturday, it came down in buckets again - this time in the evening while we were there, so I could see where and how the water got into the restaurant. We worked all evening: Iris made 14 pizzas, thankfully all but 2 were to-go orders. My trusted worker Wilvert and me tried to broom out and scoop up the water as it came inside.

On Monday, we increased the height of the separating wall all around, and dug little trenches to entice the water to take other routes than to flood the restaurant.


Wilvert, next to our piece of ingenuity… 🤪


Well, today, it’s coming down again in buckets! 

The view from the front terrace at the hostal


So glad we have worked on the restaurant already! It would definitely be flooded again with all that rain!

The little riverbed we cut into the terrace floor here at the hostal works, too. Through it, the water that comes down the hill in the back of the house is leaving without causing damage.

Rain runoff from hill no longer floods the house

River bed crossing the terrace

On the other side of the property, another river develops from the runoff of the other hill. Also running down in an orderly fashion. Yeay! Just on the bottom of the property we might need to provide more guidance, I guess…

Surrounded by water… 😝

When you don’t have to worry about flooding, it is actually a very beautiful thing! Soothing sounds, feeling of being protected and safe - I could watch and listen to the rain for hours! Yet, it rains like this only for 1/2 hour, then quiets down for a few hours, before the next downpour…



Wednesday, July 24, 2024

year-round fruits in season - currently “tetas de chola”

 ok, I admit, the name “breasts of chola” made it even more interesting for me to try this fruit! 😇 As if discovering a new fruit wouldn’t be enough incentive already! 🤷‍♂️🙄😝

You don’t need much imagination to understand why that name. 


Fruit quarters after breaking fruit apart, seeds after devouring the flesh, and the whole fruit

The fruit has five large seeds inside, bedded in tasty, orange fruitflesh. To eat it, I find it easiest to tear off the stem, then score the skin twice all around, and then break the quarters apart. Then it’s easy to bite out the seed from the peel, and suck off the fruitflesh.

I can not describe the flavor, only can say it’s really nice. It’s a velvety consistency, is flavorful, and sweet but not overly so. Also doesn’t have much acidity. 

To me, it’s a great little snack, when I’m feeling a little peckish, or just feel for a little sweet something…

Sunday, June 23, 2024

Purpose of Life

Yesterday, after two days of not a single guest at the restaurant Mana Pizza Yolo, finally there were some visitors again! Among them three girls, who are staying at the hostal across the street. One is from Canada, one from New Zealand, and the third from the Netherlands.



I immediately noticed their awesome vibes. And before I could even explain the menu, a wonderful, deep conversation had started! As happens to be the case so often these days when I'm in the restaurant, the topic was the purpose of the human species on the planet, how to find and live our individual purpose in the world, and how to find happiness and fulfillment.

Sarah tried to take notes on her phone of various ideas and perspectives, so I pointed her to the Tool of the Universe blog.

One of the core aspects of the "tool of the Universe" world-view is, that the Universe guides us through coincidents into situations either that help us grow, or where we are needed, or (most often) both. 

This conversation was just such an experience again! It seemed to me, that they were very ready for just exactly the ideas I am able to share. Many questions were asked. Many aspects were touched upon.

Through this conversation they got answers to many questions they couldn't find answers before, a new and different perspective to view the world opened for them. And for me it was really nice, too. I've been searching all my life to find answers to these questions, and through these curious and open-minded youngsters, I was able to share the insights I was given along the way. And, as so often, their questions helped me, too, to delve even deeper and understand even better how it all fits together!

What took me a life-time to figure out, I shared in 1/2 hour. Now they can use their life-time to build on top of my insights. And when they are in their 60s, youngsters will most likely come into their life, and they will be able to share two life-times worth of wisdom with these youngsters...

Situations like this make feel hopeful for the world, that humanity is not going to self eradicate but will figure out how to live within the system without changing it to the point where humans no longer can exists. And, these conversations make me feel I shouldn't sign off just yet, because I still am useful on this planet!

When people want to hear about why I'm there, I'm explaining that my land and house are in Chiriquí (5 hours by car or a full day traveling by bus) but my heart is here in Santa Catalina. She's baking the best pizzas in town, as over and over customers have been enthusiastically proclaiming. 

Now, my heart does come with me to Camarón Arriba, when I go there to continue with the development of my house. So theoretically, she could just stay there with me. We could close the restaurant, sell the house that's planned to be the Hostal Un Mundo, and both retire to my place.  But...

Iris delights in surprising her clients with her wonderfully looking, and super tasty meals. It is a lot of work, but it provides happiness and fulfillment to her. And even though the restaurant is just barely paying for its costs, it is these opportunities for conversations that make me want to hold on to it, too.

After all, we're not here just to be comfortable, but to make a contribution to the continuation of the development of this creation! So, I guess, as long as we both have the energy to continue, we'll both be living mostly in Santa Catalina, Veraguas - welcoming and surprising our guests with our specialties for their body and their soul...

Tuesday, June 18, 2024

Leave the planning to the Universe...

When in Santa Catalina I spend most evenings at Iris' restaurant. Most of the guests there are travellers from other parts of the world: Europe, US, even South Africa and South America, too. 

Most often a conversation develops with one or the other group, usually about finding purpose and happiness in your life. So many of the folks in their 30s that end up visiting the restaurant are on an extended trip, with the purpose of finding purpose, fulfillment, and their mission. 



This is the topic I have searched about for all my life, and spent many, many days and nights pondering. Those who know me, know that I have found a different world-view, one that makes the quest for happiness and fulfillment much easier. 

Quite frequently the conversation becomes very inspiring - for them, because it is a completely different perspective and a completely new way to look at life, thus, holding a tremendous potential to get ahead in their quest. And for me, every young person, who is interested in more than just their own comfort, gives me hope that humanity might still be able to survive on this planet and not destroy it to the point where it becomes impossible for humans to live.

One of the key insights that I a often try to convey is, that leaving the planning and arranging up to the Universe works much better, than trying to do it yourself.

Despite how much humanity so far has figured out and come to know and understand, compared to how much there would be to know we are really barely at the beginning stages.  Try to draw a graph, with "0 knowledge" on one side, and "knowing all" on the other side. Then put a mark to where a potato-peeler would fall on this line, and where a dog, and where you, and where humanity as a whole. These 4 marks would be pretty much at the same spot - basically at the "0 knowledge" end - even if you were to draw the graph 4 km long...

With that realization in mind, how stupid and arrogant for us to think we should be in control of what's happening. Praying for something (or the newer idea of using your sub-conscience to manipulate what's coming to you) is just that. Acting, as if you know what is best to happen. God (or whatever you call it) needs a reminder and a pointer to know what to arrange for? Well, it makes no sense, and it obviously doesn't work! Never has (as far as I can observe) and never will (as far as I can imagine).

What does work, though - at least as much as I can observe and notice - is to leave the planning and arranging up to the Universe, and put your effort into trying to understand what is coming your way and why!

Since the first time this thought occurred to me more than 15 years ago until today, I have seen it over and over and over again, that whatever came my way needed something, and it was highly likely to actually happen, just because I am me, I behave as I do, react as I do, am passionate about what I am, have the skills, knowledge and experiences that I have. Also, it most often was exactly what I needed, too - not necessarily for my own comfort or ego, but for me to make the next step in my development to become an even more sophisticated, more capable tool that the Universe can use to get certain things accomplished.

BTW, I am much more "productive" when I am happy. It seems, that the Universe is aware of that, and takes care of that, too! I eventually get everything that I need to be happy and well taken care of - both spiritually, as well as physically!

My experience is, that the less I focus on what "I want", and instead focus on what I can "contribute", the more I get what I really need - automatically, by itself, without me having to do anything else except recognize, accept and embrace it when it shows up!

My life used to be full of struggle and always felt like running a steep slope uphill, swimming against the current. Well I was! Because I ignored where the current was going! Heck, I didn't even realize there was a current! Now, I still have to work, I still am often clueless, I still experiences crises, I still have to put effort into whatever I am doing - but, my life is full of amazing experiences, awesome rewards and accomplishments, and fulfilled, meaningful, and happy! 

The simple change I attribute all of this: I stopped focusing on what I want, what I plan, what I want to accomplish, and instead focus on what the Universe might hope to get done when it sends my way whatever shows up in my life.

It just like in a good job: If you focus on your work, the money shows up automatically in your account!

rain, rain, rain, rain, rain

We just returned from a trip visiting my parents and family in Austria. From before we arrived, there was rain there, every day. For all 4 weeks that we were there, there was rain everyday, on and off mostly all day. It is cold, when it rains in Austria! Some mornings we had only 5C (40F). During the day, the temperature hardly ever reached 20C (68F). That’s very cold for my body, who’s used to temperatures in the 30s (above 86F)!

I mentioned to my family that in Panama we hardly ever have a day that is raining on and off all day. Well, I guess, I jinxed it! 

Since we arrived last Friday evening, as usual for the season - from about mid April to about mid December is the not-dry season here - it rained every day. And, as also usual for the season, we had sun in the morning, and rain only in the afternoon. But today, we got rain on and off all day!

Ready, able, and willing - only thing missing: customers…

For me that’s not a problem! i love the sound of the rain! And it’s by far not as hot than when it’s sunny. But i feel for the few tourists n town. For them it’s a day of their vacation…

But, hey, maybe tomorrow we get some sun again! Yeay!

Thursday, March 14, 2024

Real Retirement

I’m working on two houses - mine in Camarón Arriba, Chiriquí, and Iris’ hostal in Santa Catalina. And I’m working in the evening in the restaurant, trying to help out Iris, who’s baking the best pizzas I’ve ever seen and eaten - she can’t bake pizzas in the kitchen and take orders on the dining terrace at the same time; although this is pretty much what she did before i came into her life… Well, each one of these three jobs by themselves would be sufficient to make you forget that you’re retired! I’m doing all three of them! My sister once joked: “if thisis what retirement’s supposed to be, i’d rather stay in myjob!”😝

But, It not complaining! Iris is working on the same three jobs, just more hours per day than me! And she’s running the household, cooking, cleaning, and all of that in addition! The only explanation I have how she’s able to do all that, is, that she’s the Duracell (Energizer) Bunnyincarnated! 🤪😇

Well, today, I took time off from all my work to try to bake another cake. I followed “Baken mit Christina”’s recipe for the Mandel Blume (Almond Flower).



It’s hard to get some of the ingredients here that are common and usual in Austria, but following the Panamanian way I improvised where needed. The result is quite tasty, if I may say so myself. my ex-wife usually wasn’t all to excited (to say the least) when I cooked or baked. Iris, however, loves my cakes! 🥰😇🙃 She has been bugging me for a little while already to bake a cake again. Today was the day… 😝

Monday, March 11, 2024

Temperatures - Dry Season

 There are two seasons in Panama: the dry season and the rainy season.

Rainy season does not mean “Mosoon”! It simply means, it most likely will rain in the afternoon. the morning and noon time are usually sunny. Around 13:00 to 15:00 (1 to 3 pm) it clouds over, and rain will fall.

Right now is the dry season on the pacific side of Panama. That season usually starts around mid- to end of December, and lasts until mid-April.

Dry season also is the time when many bushes and trees flower. Here are pictures of a few examples…


Bougainvillea 



Pink Guayacan Tree

Bougainvillea in Santiago, Veraguas - Arosemena Park


Today, we left Santa Catalina, Veraguas, around 4:30 in the morning, to drive to Camarón Arriba, Chiriquí.

When we left, the car reported 24C (75F). when we reached David, the capital of Chiriquí, around 9:30, the temperature had already climbed to about 29C (83F). When we left David around 14:45 (2:30 pm), the car showed 39C (103F). La Concepción (capital of Bugaba district) was about 2C (4F) less hot. 

When we left La Concepción around 18:00 (6:00 pm), it was still 32C (90F). And when we reached my house at 700 m altitude in Camarón Arriba, the temperature was already down to 27C (80F).

I do like warm, and I don’t mind really warm, but when the temperatures rice to the upper 30sC (upper 90s F) and above, it gets a little too hot, even for me! 🤪🤷‍♂️😝

Well, this trip just reconfirmed for me, that Camarón Arriba is ideal for me: the temperatures hardly reach 30C during the day, and drop to 20C at night (86F and 68C respectively). Perfect!

Such a cool feature of Panama, to be able to choose the ideal temperature range for you, simply by moving higher or lower on the mountains…

Wednesday, January 10, 2024

Our Hostal Un Mundo is getting close to be ready…

Slowly, step by step, the hostal in Santa Catalina is getting further and further ahead. Yeay!

We finished tiling the kitchen a few days ago. Iris is now grouting the last little areas. Then applying the sealer, and the kitchen and dining room is ready. 

Iris the chef is also an expert in grouting by now!

My dear friend Nancy had bequested her dining table to me, and it came from the US with the container with my household goods in September.

our first guests at breakfast

I’m still working on a rustic bench, built from rough-sawn teak and cedro wood. My tablesaw and other tools came with my household goods, too. It feels so nice to be able to work with wood again!

The dorm room is also ready. I built the beds, we bought the mattresses and carried them home on the roof-rack, and Iris put the sheets and towels… 

It is a rather small space, but mattresses are good ones, and sheets, too.

We hope folks will enjoy our hospitality


We are ready for guests. Only the outside needs to still be worked on. But, that will get done in time as well…

A few days ago, I noticed a young couple in front of the restaurant, with their backbags at their feet. It was already late at night, and they appeared not to know where to go. I went outside to chat a little with them. Turned out, my impression was right - they where stranded without accommodations. They had a tent, but to find a spot to put it up in the night is rather difficult. So I offered them to stay with us for the night. 

Our first guests

They were very glad and we got a chance experience how it feels to have people stay in our home. We had a wonderful time with them! 


They reaffirmed for me that the idea and concept is good and needed:


Hostal Un Mundo

One World - One Planet - One people

A meeting-spot for open minded, caring spirits from all over the planet!

Monday, January 8, 2024

Gotchas of Panamanian buildings - worst practices

In every industry, over time, best practices are developed and defined. The builders in Panama, however, seems to not have adopted much of what’s common practice in other countries. Well, there are two types of builders: the large construction firms that build skyscrapers, and the little guys who build homes by hand.

I have no idea about the large construction firms, I’m taking about the little guys. 

Many of the little farmers can not survive off their farm and are subsidizing their income by working in construction. Everybody out in the country seems to know how to work with concrete. Many know how to weld, or do plumbing, or electrical installations.
They have learned by watching and assisting somebody else, and then just doing it often. They never got proper training, or schooling about the theory.  They do as well as they know how!

At the same time, most people here don’t have a large enough income to be able to afford hiring a firm to build their homes. Instead, they save up a little money and buy some sand and rocks and a couple of blocks and bags of cement, and build as far as their material reaches. Then they wait until they have more money, to do the next.

As a consequence, work is performed in a way that is the least costly, and the easiest to perform.

My personal most feared “worst practices” are these:

Anywhere you go in the country you’ll find a trashcan next to the toilet bowl into which you’re supposed to place the used toiletpaper. you should not throw the paper into the toilet, as you’re used to do in europe, the US or similar countries. the reason for this is, that the drain pipes are sometimes too small and most of the times don’t have the correct declination. if that pipe is too steep (more than 3cm per m, 1” per 3 ft) or too shallow (less than 2cm per m, 3/4” per 3ft), the solids tend to get stuck. With paper it clogs the pipe frequently. Worst practice: drain pipes incorrect declination.
Declination of drain pipes does often not follow best practices, but rather the terrain


In my house I put extra care and effort to ensure the pipes have the right declination. So toiletpaper can be flushed down without problems! 
Also, I ensured that for every pipe there’s easy access for a snake tool,in case the pipe does get clogged for any reason at any time.

Electrical wires are color coded. White is neutral, bare or green is ground, and black (red, blue, or yellow) are phases. In local homes (and businesses as well) you often find cables used not according to their color. That makes troubleshooting very difficult and dangerous!

In this box, the leaving cable uses white for hot and red for neutral!

In my house I took great care that wires are used with the correct color coding. 
Also, I made sure in every junction-box and the breaker-box every wire is labeled with the circuit it belongs to. Again, to make maintenance and troubleshooting easier, should there ever be a problem, or the need to extend the system.


The floor in walk-in showers are supposed to decline towards the drain. Often it doesn’t, so there’s always a puddle on the floor. Over time that part of the floor gets grimy and slippery. 

In my house I had the mason adjust the subflooring multiple times, until there was the right declination in the whole bathroom! Also, I selected tiles that don’t get slippery when wet. That way slip-and-fall accidents are less likely.

There are more issues I noticed. I might add some more at another time… For now, these are the most annoying, and the easiest avoidable issues…

Sunday, January 7, 2024

Gotchas of Panamanian buildings - architecture and the basics

 New acquaintances happen to start building their home here in Panama, actually, not too far from my house. I started telling them about various aspects about the local architecture and building practices. then I realized, it might be interesting and helpful to others as well. so I decided to blog about the gotchas I encountered…

Here you go! The first installment. More to come…

The local architecture has two styles: the local style and the foreigners style. Both are, in my view, flawed, as they don’t take the climate and environmental problems into account.

First, the style for foreigners:

On first sight, the homes built for foreigners are lovely! But, after careful examination, the beauty turns out to be just skin-deep! 

typical house for foreigners - US architecture, solving problems they have there, but ignoring problems and benefits we have here

Essentially, the architecture is just copied from the US. There are specific problems that are addressed by the designs. However, these problems don’t exist here! In the US you need your home to protect you from very low temperatures in the winter and very high temperatures in the summer. Also, tornadoes are possible in almost the whole country. 

Here in Panama, the temperatures are always the same, and it rarely reaches the 90’s C (upper 30’s F). So you don’t need protection from the temperatures! Also, except in some special places, wind is not a problem. There are no tornados, here, nor hurricanes!

Here, you can be outside all the time, except for sleeping. So, with a house where all livingspace is indoors, isolated from the rest of the world, you’re missing out on the best part of living in Panama - living outside!

What’s worse, though, is, that this architecture does not offer a solution for the environmental problems typical for here: lots of sun and rain, and always super high humidity of the air, unreliable electricity and water supply. To fix the lack of consideration of these topics in the design, super large air-conditioning and dehumidifying systems are installed. In addition of being locked away from the fresh air, you’re subjected to constant noise, and high electricity bills! 

I’m trying a different architecture, that takes the local problems into consideration, and maximizes the benefits of living in a tropical location. (More on that later…)

But before that, the local style:

They dig some ditches where the walls are going to be to create a foundation for them. The sewer pipes are laid. And the walls put on top of the foundation. On top of the walls cariolas are being placed and welded onto the rebars sticking out of the concrete. The sheet metal roof is screwed onto these cariolas.

First problem: the foundation. Much of the land is covered with fertile, black soil. that soil doesn’t carry load well, easily shifts due to much water during the rainy season and lack of water during the dry season, and from the relatively frequent, although weak, earthquakes.

As a result, many buildings have cracks in the walls, or are starting to hang a little over time.

My attempt to address the problem is to use a bed of cracked stones, similar to the beds of railroad tracks. On top of that, I poured a 20 cm thick concrete slab, onto which I built the walls and placed the posts that carry the roof.  First of all, water easily finds its way through this bed of rocks, secondly I placed drainage pipes all around to ensure there’s never much water getting there in the first place. But, should anything underneath there shift a little, the rocks distribute the load and cover for the uneven load-bearing quality of the ground underneath.

Using 10 cm wide blocks to build a form for the concrete slab on top of 20 cm crushed stones

laying the rebar mesh and placing the cariola frames for the doors so everything is nicely connected with the slab

pouring the concrete slab - Iris working like the men!

Walls on top of the slab. Two rooms with a bathroom each and the connecting wall that separates the kitchen from the back terrace. On the left, forms for poured concrete corner columns are visible

Welding together the cariola structure that will hold the sheetmetal to form the roof

The basic structure is done! The roof is also almost finished, it protects the rooms and the big terrace that is the living room, dining room and kitchen. Living in and with nature, not isolated and separated from it!


Next problem: the walls. The walls are build with 10cm thick concrete blocks, which have three holes to be filled with concrete once the block is in position. Aside of some of the workers not using “plomos” to make sure the wall is really vertical, most use their “palaustre” (heart shaped trowel) to push the concrete down in the holes and compact it. These tools, however, are too wide to go all the way to the bottom of the block. As a result, usually the blocks have concrete on top, but a hollow space filled with air in the bottom. 

typical block wall, space for columns on side of doors nicely visible. Hole in block to be filled with concrete visible well, too.


The building code requires all corners and the sides of all windows and doors to be solid concrete columns, build through forms, not blocks, and with rebars enforced. And on top of the windows and doors, and the top 30 cm of all walls are supposed to be solid concrete beams, too - also built with forms and rebar enforced. Those parts should take the load, so even though the walls are mostly air, the house should not crumble. But, “should” isn’t good enough for me! I want to be sure. So i asked - and fought during the whole wall building process - that the helpers use rebar sticks to ensure the holes in the blocks are filled with compacted concrete all the way to the bottom.

Third problem: the heat and humidity. The roof gets very hot from the sun.VERY hot! T
here is no space between roof and wall, so all that heat is absorbed by the concrete. Even as the temperatures fall during the night, it is always hot in these houses! The sun heats up the house during the day, the concrete keeps it hot during the night! The lack of decently sized windows and the fact that the local style sliding windows only open half, doesn’t really help the situation.

Also, due to the super high humidity all the time, when there’s standing air, there’s very quickly mold and mildew. All the mold-resistant paint in the world is not a working solution. Keeping fans running in every room for 24 hours a day helps, but uses a lot of energy!

My attempt to tackle the problem with the humidity is by having many big windows, which can be opened all the way. That way, there’s always a breeze in the room - even without fan. No mold, nor mildew! And feels cooler, too!

To reduce the heat in the house, I have a pretty large crawlspace between the sheet metal roof and the wooden ceiling of the rooms. There’s no wall above the rooms, so air can circulate and move freely. Middle school physics says, hot air rises.. Alright, the air that gets heated up under the sheetmetal can freely leave that space, and cooler air can move in. that crawlspace never gets really hot! And, wood being a good insulator, the wooden ceiling - even though only 2cm (3/4”) thick, ensures that the room, nor the walls that makeup the room, never get really hot.


note the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof, and the big windows 

I got the confirmation that this works already while building: several of the workers mentioned on various occasions that it so nice to work in the house because it is  not so hot, as in their homes…


The best part about living in this tropical place is, that you can be outside all day. There’s nothing nicer than hearing the birds, the wind in the trees, the rain gushing down, to feel the breeze, to always breath fresh air!

The architecture I think is ideal for here is a home that most of all has a big terrace under a roof. The roof keeps you dry when it’s raining, and its shade protects you from the sun. There are bedrooms and bathrooms that are wrapped in walls, but they, too, are well connected with the outside through doors and  large windows that are protected by insect-netting and can be left open almost all the time.


large terrace serves as living room, dining room, and kitchen

rain water is collected and provides the water for showers, toilets, and kitchen as well (filtered for drinking purposes). Stored in a higher altitude tank water supply works even during power-outages

Large windows in the bedrooms ensure the air in the room is always moving, reducing if not eliminating problems with mold and mildew


This house needs no air-conditioning, no dehumidifier, is independent of the public watersupply, and reduces the negative impact of the frequent power outages. By adding PV panels and a larger battery, the house can be completely independent from the public power-supply as well. 

You basically live in your garden - paradisical!


Update: just saw an advertisement for a house, which is built in typical architecture:

Typical house for local middle-class. Interestingly, the add is in english, implying they are trying to address foreigners, too…


Look at how small the windows are, and remember, this type doesn’t open all the way; only one half slides in front of the other one. There’s no air circulation at all in this house! Can you imagine how hot that house gets when there’s a power outage! It’s a baking-oven!

Friday, November 24, 2023

Finding excuse to not have to work…

 As I’m getting older I seem to have less and less energy. I already felt the onset when I was trying to renovate the house in Wilmington all by myself, in an attempt to proof to my then wife how much I cared about her. Well, she didn’t get the message… And i blew, it seems, my last reserve of energy…

Today, I’m working on building two houses here in Panama. And it’s getting harder and harder to get going every morning… 

The house in Chiriquí is about 4 to 5 weeks of work (with hired workers) away from being able to be put on the market. I’m hoping some nice folks to have as neighbors will find it, and enjoy the very unique architecture features and serene country setting, up high enough to have warm (not hot) days and cool nights. Despite the materials and labor costs having risen quite a bit over the last year and a half, I’m still thinking of being able to sell it for 150K - much less than the usual homes suitable for foreigners.

Backside of the house, as seen from the street

Huge terrace - the living room, dining room, and kitchen all at once

Guapo, my trusted worker. Front view of the house

Well, first I need to get it finished, though. And for that I need to get back to Chiriquí…


Currently, we’re in Santa Catalina, Veraguas. one of the best surf spots in Panama. Iris‘ house is really close to being able to make use of it. Really close, but not yet quite there…


Iris - family outing with dogs at playa estero

skin and bones! no matter how much I eat

Happy to take few hours off

Due to the countrywide protests it’s even more difficult to get materials and workers, as movement is very restricted. So I’m forced to try to work on my own…

I’m supposed to tile the livingroom/kitchen, sonIris can do the grouting. And I’m trying to build out one room upstairs, so we have a lockable space to store tools, materials, and other household stuff.


This morning, though, i woke up with the desire to bake Vanille Kipferl - one of the many traditional Austrian Christmas cookies. Iris encouraged me, too, to bake. She always seems to know what i really would like tondo, and asks me to do that. So, today, i baked these cookies, that used to be my longtime favorite sweets around christmas.

We bought a new stove last year. A mid-level style, I guess, as it was not cheap and also not one of the expensive ones. However, it doesn’t have convection fan. Nor does it have upper heat, but only from the bottom. the dial gives temperature ranges, just to make it even more challenging! 

However, given this stove and the fact i haven’t baked Vanille Kipferl in probably decades, they turned out  bastante bien (quite well). 

Proof of that is the fact that for desert at lunch we devoured already 1/2 of what I made!

what a delicious excuse to not have to tile… 😇😝🤪

Vanille Kipferl


Water problems

We tried to fill the new reserve water tank today. It filled well. But, a few minutes later the tank toppled over! foundation not level and/...