Hostal un Mundo

 Originally, Iris planned to rent out rooms in her house to locals. 

The hotels around here need more workers than are available in the village, so many people are commuting here to work. Early in the morning you can see several pickup trucks with the truckbeds full of people arriving. And the early morning busses (arriving at 6:30 and 7:30) are often full, too. The problem, though, is getting back home. The last bus leaves at 5:00, so those who want to (or could and would be needed to) work in the evening would be stuck here, with no place to sleep. 

Iris wanted to fill that need.

However, when trying to find accommodations for our guest-workers from Chiriqui we realized, that there is nothing available for guests on tight budgets as well. Most of the hotels are in the 50 to 140$ per night range. The two hostels in town, that are renting beds in mixed dormitories, are also almost 20$ per bed per night.

So we thought, maybe we can provide a mix of less expensive beds for guest and local workers as well. Even though the house is about 20 min walk from the beach in the village, we think, some backpackers and youngsters might prefer to save a few dollars on the bed and walk, rather than paying premium prices for 15 min closer to the beach... 

We'll see... For now, we're thinking (hoping) that between locals and thrifty foreigners, we're going to be able to have enough business to have the house pay for itself over time...

With the change in plans for the purposing, the floorplan of the upstairs changed as well. And the ideas about the landscaping around the house too.

Instead of another kitchen and 3 bedrooms upstairs, we're now thinking of making just one big room, and four toilets plus two showers for guests to share.

Instead of using blocks to build the outside walls, we're planning on using locally sourced wood on the side, and mostly glass on the front and backside.

But, all that will have to wait for now. First, we have to get the downstairs ready!

Progressing nicely with Iris' house

This week, Fernando (a young local man), and Capo (a "guest"-worker from Chiriqui) were working on the stucco of the third outside wall. Unfortunately, we did not have enough "tinta" - a color powder, which is mixed with cement and applied in a thin layer on top of the the freshly installed stucco.

I also learned, that it is important for the stucco to dry sufficiently first, before applying the tinted layer. In our case, it was already very late in the afternoon, and we didn't wait long enough for the stucco to dry. As a result, the grey of the stucco was bleaching into and through the layer of color, leaving the wall blotchy. Fernando - the specialist around this technique - thinks it might be possible, to apply a second layer of tinted cement and get the wall to be looking nice. Let's hope this is true...

Secondly, Capo started working on stairs leading up from the road to our yard. It is fascinating to see what local folks are able to do manually; And how they are able to build something quite beautiful and significant with the simplest means! 

Manually cut out of the earth

While Capo was digging the ground for the stairs, Fernando was working in the house, applying more drywall compound onto the walls, to create an ultra smooth finish, ready for painting later.

Fernando working the walls

Once Capo had the ground ready, the two of them mixed up the concrete - right on the dirt road in front of where the stairs are being built - and started to set the blocks to form the sidewall and steps. 

Public water pipes in the way

While Capo prepared the ground, we realized that two water pipes, which are supplying the neighbors down the road with city water, are running across the stairs. Well, obviously that won't work like that. Our plan is to cut the pipes off, put in detours to run them lower down underneath the stairs. 

Capo with the beginnings of our stairs

Water is currently provided only from about 7 am to about 11:30 am. Outside of these hours, you either have to make do without water, or install a tank.

For our problem it is off course excellent that  the water is tuned off from noon until the next morning every day! With that daily interruption it is easy to perform that work. There's no permit needed - one simply does what needs to be done, and if there's no disruption for the neighbors, nobody is complaining... Fascinating, this place! Everything is improvised, done manually, and so much without permits or involving utilities or governmental offices...

Importing Workers

After 6 months the change in ownership for the land I bought in May still hasn't made it into the registry! Without that, I can't even apply for a building permit! So, on my project, I'm still dead in the water. 

However, my partner had started building before we even met. Step by step, as much as money became available. Given the situation, we decided to first work on her house. At least get it to a point where it is useful.

The local "tradesmen" in Santa Catalina are a mess - and that's not even enough of a word to describe their cunning ways and lack of ability (or willingness) to do reasonably good work! 

My neighbors in Camarón Arriba, however, are actually quite skilled and reliable. So we ask them if they want to help us here in Santa Catalina. We can't put them up in a hotel - these are way too expensive around here! But they are very undemanding, and very interested in making some money.

The first week, Iris' neighbor "rented out" his beds and slept himself in the hammock in the livingroom. But, when at the end of the week his girlfriends little kids came to sleep there, that arrangement didn't work anymore. 

The second week now, they are "living" on the construction site. We got mattresses (which we later will be using ourselves) and put them on top of a sheet of plywood each, which are placed on some blocks to get them off the ground. A barrel with rain water suffices for washing. Iris cooks the meals at her restaurant, and I bring breakfast and lunch to the site. In the evening they come to the restaurant and eat there.

Iris is trying to make nice meals for them. Pizza (which they usually hardly ever allow themselves to afford), fish (which, of course, is much fresher and easier available here in the fishing village, than up on the mountain in Camarón. Also, fresh fruit juices, and every now and then a soda, are not usually on their table at home.

After work, if they stop before sunset, I took them to the beach. And all of us are like little children again, playing in the waves - Santa Catalina apparently is the best location for surfing in Panama! There are lots of young folks from around the world who come here to experience these waves...

All in all, they appear to be happy with the package. 

And we are very happy, too!

Finally, there's somebody who knows what they are doing working on the house! Although the bus-trip and three meals a day add to the overall cost, it still is affordable.  And, as we're now trying to compensate for all the mistakes that were made so far, the overall quality of the construction is improving with the each new step ahead.

Thoughts about learning another language - Spanish

Once it became clear that I'd be retiring in a country where English is not the main language, I went back to school to get a certificate in teaching english as a second language at University of North Georgia (A great program, by the way...) 

Among the things I learned was the (not so) new approach of "acquiring a language", rather than the old style of "learning about a language".

I learned english and french the old style while in business highschool in Austria. Now, I'm in the process of "acquiring" Spanish, as I am living in Panama. 

I started with Duolingo and Babbel. That gave me a nice little foundation. Interesting, by the way the difference between the two apps: Duolingo is by an American company and Babbel by a German. 

Duolingo is 99.9% "acquiring" and almost zero knowledge "about" the language. Works well - to a degree - but (at least to me) becomes more and more difficult as the skills improve.

Babbel is (by my estimation) 80% acquiring, and 20% background information about the language. To me, Babbel was an excellent complement to Duolingo - once I had acquired a little foundation with Duolingo, Babbel allowed me to reach the next step.

I would say, based on my experience (which means, my style of learning, my (non-)talent for languages, and such), Duolingo by itself wouldn't work for me to get proficient. Babbel by itself might work for proficiency. But, Duolingo and Babbel in combination work the best - for me!

So, if you are trying to learn any new language, I can only highly recommend to try both apps. Start with Duolingo, as it does not have a time constriction for the free version like Babbel does. And after a while try out the free week (month?) of using Babbel. (Just make sure you have plenty of time do maximize the time you can spend with Babbel during that period!) Then decide for yourself whether to pay for the one or the other or both apps; or whether to continue without the support of either...

Well, in my case: Trying to manage the construction of a home requires communicating a lot with local workers. So within a month or two, my Spanish has improved a lot from the Duolingo and Babbel foundation. Especially the vocabulary increased - I added a lot of words around construction, of course. And also I "acquired" certain phrases to the point where they became automatic... 

Now, I can mostly explain what I want my workers to do, and inquire about why they do what they do the way the do, and solicit their thoughts and opinions on various challenges.

However, I have pretty much zero understanding of grammar. I know almost nothing ABOUT the language. 

I find this makes my continuing progress much, much harder!

I now think, based on my own experience, that a combination of the "old style" and the "new style" would bring the best results. Start by acquiring, after a while catch up on grammar, and most of all, continue to "just do it" - speak the language everywhere and anywhere and all the time!

Well, if studying grammar wasn't so damn boring and hard it would be the best for me to now put a lot of focus on just that! If only I wasn't so lazy... 

Highsecurity shopping...

 My passport has about 10 or 12 pages with visas and entrance/exit stamps. But it was in pristine shape! One wouldn't have guessed it was used so much. It was!

Today, it is fading, worn, bent, and looks like it's 100 years old!

Why? Because, when in Panama, I've been told, you ought to always carry your ID with you. As a foreigner on a tourist visa it is particularly important to have your passport with you.

It is not rare, that while driving somewhere - anywhere - in Panama you turn around a curve and encounter a surprise police check-point. The first few times I was a bit worried: what do they want? How's that going to be? Especially with my very rudimentary Spanish! But, by now, I don't even think about it anymore! It happens so often. And they always just check my passport - if I am overstaying my tourist visa. Sometimes they also want to see the car papers; but that is rather rare. And much of the time they just wave me through after a glance at the passport from the distance...

Keeping the passport always in the thigh-pocket of my pants, even though it is the least strenuous pocket on my clothes, every day all day really is putting a toll on it...

But, aside of the police check-points, there is a second type of activity that requires the passport: If you want to buy a screw at the hardware store, or anything else where they are required to write you an invoice, you have to provide an ID.

That is really strange to me! I have't encountered that anywhere else in the world. Of course, I haven't been to communistic, dictator, or otherwise autocratically ruled countries. But Panama is a democratic country. And Panama is a very peaceful place - as far s I can tell! They don't even have a military - similar to Costa Rica! 

Imagine, you have to proof your identity at Lowe's, Canadian Tire, or Hornbach, or similar. Even, when buying a vacuum or cleaning supplies, shoes or clothes, or any other item that is not edible or gasoline!

Secondly, the processes in some stores are a bit confusing, too. 

Today at HOPSA for example, I found my bolts and nuts and washers and went to the cash register - passport in hand, of course. But, she sent me back to a rep. 

He had to first enter all my items into the computer and create a "factura" - of course verifying my identity by passport control and entering the passport number. When finished entering he told me the amount I will have to pay and handed my items... not to me, but to another guy in the back! He said something to him while pointing at me, and then instructed me to go to the cash register and pay for my items. 

The girl at the register asked me for the factura number - which of course I had no clue what it was! - but was able to find the one I was supposed to pay by entering my passport number into her terminal. After paying, I received 1/2 m of paper stripe with all kinds of stuff printed on it. Some of it where my items - the names so abbreviated that it was impossible for me to tell whether the listed ones where what I really had.   

With that paper, plus a second strip, she sent me to the back to the guy who had my items. He, together with a colleague went over the list on my strip of paper identifying every one of the items and checking them off. Finally, I was handed all of my items and my 1/2 m of paper and I was directed that I may leave now... I think, if I had to find a way to make it even more complicated, it might take me a while!

HOPSA is not alone, though. Franklin Jurado - another hardware store - is just as complicated, albeit different...

Well, next time at HOPSA I'll be prepared and move through the positions of the maze like a pro!

 

When building, having the right people is key

 After I purchased the land, the next step was to find an architect, who would take my drafts and convert them into a form that is useable for getting building permits. And while these processes are processing - at a very, very, very slow pace - I thought I'd start preparing the land.

My piece of paradise - still untouched

I connected with a guy who was referred to me by several "gringos" as reliable and knowledgable and english-speaker. He charged me 6 times the usual daily rate! But I had no idea even where to start finding contractors, sourcing materials, explaining what I want in Spanish, so I thought, I just have to bite that sour apple.

It started off really well. He seemed to understand what I was trying to explain, and talked "a good talk". However, already during the first two or three days of the retro (backhoe) working, I realized, there's something not right. 

The guy was basically sitting in his truck playing with his phone, and arranging for "other projects" that he appeared to have going at the same time. The retro operator was following his directions, but those directions where vague, and sometimes even wrong! Not sure if Mauricio didn't understand me, or didn't care, or thought he knows better what I want than me...

The work begins - cutting the driveway

By Thursday I decided that I better be there all day to supervise and direct the retro myself. Once I did that - even though my Spanish was at that time less than rudimentary - the retro driver turned out to be very capable, and very willing to get that done what I wanted! 

Ever Morales preparing the site of my future home

Initially I had started to think the retro is a disaster, and it will take forever and a day to get stuff ready. However, it turned out, it was only Mauricio who was the monkey wrench in the process! 

So from that Friday on I was there all day, trying to explain what I needed to be done, asking for the retro operator's advice, and basically managing the process. And it worked really well!!!

a 180 degree panorama - house site on left, driveway on right

Ever, the retro driver, was very patient with me, and no matter what the topic, sooner or later we were able to understand each other.  And it was a real pleasure to watch him do his job! I could tell it was his passion. The machine seemed like an extension of his body. He could make it be forcefull, and gentle, move big quantities and just skim little detail to level the spot... Amazing! (If you are in the western chiriqui area and need a retro, I can highly recommend Ever Morales - ask me for his number.)

Once the retro work was completed, I followed the recommendation of Gabriel - the person from whom I purchased the land - and asked my now neighbor Sergio for his help. Gabriel told me he is very well versed in welding, concrete work, plumbing, and other construction tasks.

I started with a very small project, just to see how things are going.

Sergio working on the supporting wall that creates my first garden spot

 The first morning, his uncle Carlos came, too, asking if I have work for him, too. I thought, why not? Oh boy, these two guys were excellent!!! They created that little wall very quickly, made it look pretty, and filled the space behind it according to what I explained - first branches, then black soil. 

ready to start putting the first seeds in the ground

Within two days my first little garden spot was completed! And I wasn't even there to supervise! I simply explained, then left them working, while I went hunting for materials and quotes and connecting with the architect.

They also worked patiently with me on the foundation for the concrete slab for my house. I'll write a separate post for that... lots of lessons learned there...

Carlos and Sergio working on the foundation of the house and septic pipes

Next, I wanted to prepare the "Monolito" - a wall at the side of the road, where the electric company will later put the meter. Sergio recommended his cousin Delmer for the electricity related work. So I hired Delmer, too, and the three of them built the supporting wall at the entrance to my driveway, integrating the monolito. 

Delmer, Carlos, and Sergio - in front of half finished "monolito"

Delmer turns out to be not just good with electricity, but also a master in concrete work! I think they did an excellent job! 

Right side of entrance to the driveway - with monolito and post for gate (still covered)

(If you are in need of capable, hard working construction workers, I can only highly recommend Sergio, Delmer, and Carlos, too! - Again, ask me for their contacts...)

Winter - in a different shape

 In Panama there are only two seasons: rainy season and dry season. The locals call the rainy season "Winter", and the dry season "Summer".

Rainy season doesn't mean monsoon like rains most of the day and night. So far, it seems it means it can rain in the afternoon. Usually, the mornings are dry, often sunny.

Early morning - Volcan Baru - the "Sleeping pregnant girl" from this perspective

So far, as a retiree, this rain in the afternoon was not bothering me at all. The opposite! It is very calming and peaceful to me to listen to the rain drumming on the tin-roof!

Rain, Rain, Rain...

Since I started building my home, however, it is a little bit of a different story! Now it is always a hoping for the rain not to start too soon. The workers are paid a daily rate. If the rain comes too soon, the day is cut short, the wage, however, stays the same. At 15$ to 20$ a day this isn't such a big deal. But, not getting ahead is a bummer...

Well, it is another opportunity for me to practice patience, and serenity. I can't change the fact that it rains. I can't force more, faster progress on the construction. I only can accept the rain, and find the beauty in it.

Thus I'm sitting on the porch, listening to the drumming on the roof, and writing my blog... Life is good!