Importing Workers

After 6 months the change in ownership for the land I bought in May still hasn't made it into the registry! Without that, I can't even apply for a building permit! So, on my project, I'm still dead in the water. 

However, my partner had started building before we even met. Step by step, as much as money became available. Given the situation, we decided to first work on her house. At least get it to a point where it is useful.

The local "tradesmen" in Santa Catalina are a mess - and that's not even enough of a word to describe their cunning ways and lack of ability (or willingness) to do reasonably good work! 

My neighbors in Camarón Arriba, however, are actually quite skilled and reliable. So we ask them if they want to help us here in Santa Catalina. We can't put them up in a hotel - these are way too expensive around here! But they are very undemanding, and very interested in making some money.

The first week, Iris' neighbor "rented out" his beds and slept himself in the hammock in the livingroom. But, when at the end of the week his girlfriends little kids came to sleep there, that arrangement didn't work anymore. 

The second week now, they are "living" on the construction site. We got mattresses (which we later will be using ourselves) and put them on top of a sheet of plywood each, which are placed on some blocks to get them off the ground. A barrel with rain water suffices for washing. Iris cooks the meals at her restaurant, and I bring breakfast and lunch to the site. In the evening they come to the restaurant and eat there.

Iris is trying to make nice meals for them. Pizza (which they usually hardly ever allow themselves to afford), fish (which, of course, is much fresher and easier available here in the fishing village, than up on the mountain in Camarón. Also, fresh fruit juices, and every now and then a soda, are not usually on their table at home.

After work, if they stop before sunset, I took them to the beach. And all of us are like little children again, playing in the waves - Santa Catalina apparently is the best location for surfing in Panama! There are lots of young folks from around the world who come here to experience these waves...

All in all, they appear to be happy with the package. 

And we are very happy, too!

Finally, there's somebody who knows what they are doing working on the house! Although the bus-trip and three meals a day add to the overall cost, it still is affordable.  And, as we're now trying to compensate for all the mistakes that were made so far, the overall quality of the construction is improving with the each new step ahead.

Thoughts about learning another language - Spanish

Once it became clear that I'd be retiring in a country where English is not the main language, I went back to school to get a certificate in teaching english as a second language at University of North Georgia (A great program, by the way...) 

Among the things I learned was the (not so) new approach of "acquiring a language", rather than the old style of "learning about a language".

I learned english and french the old style while in business highschool in Austria. Now, I'm in the process of "acquiring" Spanish, as I am living in Panama. 

I started with Duolingo and Babbel. That gave me a nice little foundation. Interesting, by the way the difference between the two apps: Duolingo is by an American company and Babbel by a German. 

Duolingo is 99.9% "acquiring" and almost zero knowledge "about" the language. Works well - to a degree - but (at least to me) becomes more and more difficult as the skills improve.

Babbel is (by my estimation) 80% acquiring, and 20% background information about the language. To me, Babbel was an excellent complement to Duolingo - once I had acquired a little foundation with Duolingo, Babbel allowed me to reach the next step.

I would say, based on my experience (which means, my style of learning, my (non-)talent for languages, and such), Duolingo by itself wouldn't work for me to get proficient. Babbel by itself might work for proficiency. But, Duolingo and Babbel in combination work the best - for me!

So, if you are trying to learn any new language, I can only highly recommend to try both apps. Start with Duolingo, as it does not have a time constriction for the free version like Babbel does. And after a while try out the free week (month?) of using Babbel. (Just make sure you have plenty of time do maximize the time you can spend with Babbel during that period!) Then decide for yourself whether to pay for the one or the other or both apps; or whether to continue without the support of either...

Well, in my case: Trying to manage the construction of a home requires communicating a lot with local workers. So within a month or two, my Spanish has improved a lot from the Duolingo and Babbel foundation. Especially the vocabulary increased - I added a lot of words around construction, of course. And also I "acquired" certain phrases to the point where they became automatic... 

Now, I can mostly explain what I want my workers to do, and inquire about why they do what they do the way the do, and solicit their thoughts and opinions on various challenges.

However, I have pretty much zero understanding of grammar. I know almost nothing ABOUT the language. 

I find this makes my continuing progress much, much harder!

I now think, based on my own experience, that a combination of the "old style" and the "new style" would bring the best results. Start by acquiring, after a while catch up on grammar, and most of all, continue to "just do it" - speak the language everywhere and anywhere and all the time!

Well, if studying grammar wasn't so damn boring and hard it would be the best for me to now put a lot of focus on just that! If only I wasn't so lazy... 

Highsecurity shopping...

 My passport has about 10 or 12 pages with visas and entrance/exit stamps. But it was in pristine shape! One wouldn't have guessed it was used so much. It was!

Today, it is fading, worn, bent, and looks like it's 100 years old!

Why? Because, when in Panama, I've been told, you ought to always carry your ID with you. As a foreigner on a tourist visa it is particularly important to have your passport with you.

It is not rare, that while driving somewhere - anywhere - in Panama you turn around a curve and encounter a surprise police check-point. The first few times I was a bit worried: what do they want? How's that going to be? Especially with my very rudimentary Spanish! But, by now, I don't even think about it anymore! It happens so often. And they always just check my passport - if I am overstaying my tourist visa. Sometimes they also want to see the car papers; but that is rather rare. And much of the time they just wave me through after a glance at the passport from the distance...

Keeping the passport always in the thigh-pocket of my pants, even though it is the least strenuous pocket on my clothes, every day all day really is putting a toll on it...

But, aside of the police check-points, there is a second type of activity that requires the passport: If you want to buy a screw at the hardware store, or anything else where they are required to write you an invoice, you have to provide an ID.

That is really strange to me! I have't encountered that anywhere else in the world. Of course, I haven't been to communistic, dictator, or otherwise autocratically ruled countries. But Panama is a democratic country. And Panama is a very peaceful place - as far s I can tell! They don't even have a military - similar to Costa Rica! 

Imagine, you have to proof your identity at Lowe's, Canadian Tire, or Hornbach, or similar. Even, when buying a vacuum or cleaning supplies, shoes or clothes, or any other item that is not edible or gasoline!

Secondly, the processes in some stores are a bit confusing, too. 

Today at HOPSA for example, I found my bolts and nuts and washers and went to the cash register - passport in hand, of course. But, she sent me back to a rep. 

He had to first enter all my items into the computer and create a "factura" - of course verifying my identity by passport control and entering the passport number. When finished entering he told me the amount I will have to pay and handed my items... not to me, but to another guy in the back! He said something to him while pointing at me, and then instructed me to go to the cash register and pay for my items. 

The girl at the register asked me for the factura number - which of course I had no clue what it was! - but was able to find the one I was supposed to pay by entering my passport number into her terminal. After paying, I received 1/2 m of paper stripe with all kinds of stuff printed on it. Some of it where my items - the names so abbreviated that it was impossible for me to tell whether the listed ones where what I really had.   

With that paper, plus a second strip, she sent me to the back to the guy who had my items. He, together with a colleague went over the list on my strip of paper identifying every one of the items and checking them off. Finally, I was handed all of my items and my 1/2 m of paper and I was directed that I may leave now... I think, if I had to find a way to make it even more complicated, it might take me a while!

HOPSA is not alone, though. Franklin Jurado - another hardware store - is just as complicated, albeit different...

Well, next time at HOPSA I'll be prepared and move through the positions of the maze like a pro!

 

When building, having the right people is key

 After I purchased the land, the next step was to find an architect, who would take my drafts and convert them into a form that is useable for getting building permits. And while these processes are processing - at a very, very, very slow pace - I thought I'd start preparing the land.

My piece of paradise - still untouched

I connected with a guy who was referred to me by several "gringos" as reliable and knowledgable and english-speaker. He charged me 6 times the usual daily rate! But I had no idea even where to start finding contractors, sourcing materials, explaining what I want in Spanish, so I thought, I just have to bite that sour apple.

It started off really well. He seemed to understand what I was trying to explain, and talked "a good talk". However, already during the first two or three days of the retro (backhoe) working, I realized, there's something not right. 

The guy was basically sitting in his truck playing with his phone, and arranging for "other projects" that he appeared to have going at the same time. The retro operator was following his directions, but those directions where vague, and sometimes even wrong! Not sure if Mauricio didn't understand me, or didn't care, or thought he knows better what I want than me...

The work begins - cutting the driveway

By Thursday I decided that I better be there all day to supervise and direct the retro myself. Once I did that - even though my Spanish was at that time less than rudimentary - the retro driver turned out to be very capable, and very willing to get that done what I wanted! 

Ever Morales preparing the site of my future home

Initially I had started to think the retro is a disaster, and it will take forever and a day to get stuff ready. However, it turned out, it was only Mauricio who was the monkey wrench in the process! 

So from that Friday on I was there all day, trying to explain what I needed to be done, asking for the retro operator's advice, and basically managing the process. And it worked really well!!!

a 180 degree panorama - house site on left, driveway on right

Ever, the retro driver, was very patient with me, and no matter what the topic, sooner or later we were able to understand each other.  And it was a real pleasure to watch him do his job! I could tell it was his passion. The machine seemed like an extension of his body. He could make it be forcefull, and gentle, move big quantities and just skim little detail to level the spot... Amazing! (If you are in the western chiriqui area and need a retro, I can highly recommend Ever Morales - ask me for his number.)

Once the retro work was completed, I followed the recommendation of Gabriel - the person from whom I purchased the land - and asked my now neighbor Sergio for his help. Gabriel told me he is very well versed in welding, concrete work, plumbing, and other construction tasks.

I started with a very small project, just to see how things are going.

Sergio working on the supporting wall that creates my first garden spot

 The first morning, his uncle Carlos came, too, asking if I have work for him, too. I thought, why not? Oh boy, these two guys were excellent!!! They created that little wall very quickly, made it look pretty, and filled the space behind it according to what I explained - first branches, then black soil. 

ready to start putting the first seeds in the ground

Within two days my first little garden spot was completed! And I wasn't even there to supervise! I simply explained, then left them working, while I went hunting for materials and quotes and connecting with the architect.

They also worked patiently with me on the foundation for the concrete slab for my house. I'll write a separate post for that... lots of lessons learned there...

Carlos and Sergio working on the foundation of the house and septic pipes

Next, I wanted to prepare the "Monolito" - a wall at the side of the road, where the electric company will later put the meter. Sergio recommended his cousin Delmer for the electricity related work. So I hired Delmer, too, and the three of them built the supporting wall at the entrance to my driveway, integrating the monolito. 

Delmer, Carlos, and Sergio - in front of half finished "monolito"

Delmer turns out to be not just good with electricity, but also a master in concrete work! I think they did an excellent job! 

Right side of entrance to the driveway - with monolito and post for gate (still covered)

(If you are in need of capable, hard working construction workers, I can only highly recommend Sergio, Delmer, and Carlos, too! - Again, ask me for their contacts...)

Winter - in a different shape

 In Panama there are only two seasons: rainy season and dry season. The locals call the rainy season "Winter", and the dry season "Summer".

Rainy season doesn't mean monsoon like rains most of the day and night. So far, it seems it means it can rain in the afternoon. Usually, the mornings are dry, often sunny.

Early morning - Volcan Baru - the "Sleeping pregnant girl" from this perspective

So far, as a retiree, this rain in the afternoon was not bothering me at all. The opposite! It is very calming and peaceful to me to listen to the rain drumming on the tin-roof!

Rain, Rain, Rain...

Since I started building my home, however, it is a little bit of a different story! Now it is always a hoping for the rain not to start too soon. The workers are paid a daily rate. If the rain comes too soon, the day is cut short, the wage, however, stays the same. At 15$ to 20$ a day this isn't such a big deal. But, not getting ahead is a bummer...

Well, it is another opportunity for me to practice patience, and serenity. I can't change the fact that it rains. I can't force more, faster progress on the construction. I only can accept the rain, and find the beauty in it.

Thus I'm sitting on the porch, listening to the drumming on the roof, and writing my blog... Life is good!

Rambutan and Mangosteen Season

 Apparently, Mangosteen and Rambutan ripen mid July. Now, everywhere are people on the side of the road selling bunches of "Mamon Chino" (as Rambutans are called here), and mangosteen, too in some places.

Mangosteen

Rambutan

I bought a bunch of Rambutan for 1$. The Mangosteen where also 1$. As much as I remember, Mangosteen - if available at all - where several dollar a piece at the farmer's market. Rambutan also a few dollars per pound...

This is one of my favorite parts of Panama: There's always something in season. And it is growing right in our backyard and doesn't have to be shipped around the globe!

Nationwide Protests

 About two weeks ago some indigenous of eastern Chiriqui and western Veraguas blocked the Panameriacn Highway (or Interamericana, as it is referred to here) in protest to the rising costs of gas and everything else as well. These folks work often for 10$ a day or less. Last time I filed up my car I paid more than 70$ - and my car is not a 4x4 pickup truck, which is what these folks need to use on their farms.

So this situation is really threatening their survival.

Unfortunately, the situation has since been highjacked by hoodlooms and "maldidos", who are taking advantage of the situation.

Interamericana between David and Santiago

Well, The interamericana is the only connection of Chiriqui and Bocas del Toro with the rest of Panama. As it happens to be, Chiriqui is the vegetable garden and dairy farm of all of Panama. And all the gasoline and diesel is being imported through Colon. 

So, blocking this highway is a real threat to life in Panama! There is a shortage of food in eastern Panama (Veraguas, Panama City, and places in between and around), and there is a fuel shortage in Chiriqui.

Areal view of interamericana (Photo: retenchiriqui on facebook)

Here in Chiriqui, many of the businesses and plants have closed. Schools are closed, too. 

Fueltrucks stuck en route (Photo: retenchiriqui on fcaebook)

Gas stations have no more gas. Upon hearing, that one gas station received a load of gas, my neighbor left early yesterday morning to try to fill up his car. He didn't get back home until after 7 pm! He was waiting in line all day, and when he finally got to the pump in the evening, they only gave him gas for 20$!

My other neighbor lined up yesterday afternoon. He spent the night in the car, and when I talked to him last around 4pm today he still hasn't gotten gas.

The area where the land of my future home is located is dairy farming area. Usually, everyday early in the morning there are trucks collecting all the milk to transport it to the dairy plant. However, the dairy plant is now closed. The farmers are trying to find something to do with the milk, but those with more than a cow or two are having to throw away most of the milk. 

As you can imagine, this is a terrible situation! It is threatening their livelihood!

My friend Maryorie has a fruit stand along the interamericana. She has hardly any business any more, since hardly anybody has enough gas to be driving anywhere. And, on the other hand, she's getting calls and messages from her suppliers, desperately begging her to buy some of their produce. They, too, have to throw away the produce - it is harvested the day before it is being sold to the general population. What's harvested today, is distributed among the fruitstands and mercados over night, and sold the very next day. That stuff can't be harvested much longer than a few days later, because it will spoil in the field. Nor can it be stored for more than a day, either. The whole system here is geared towards fresh from the farm straight to the table. There are no cool storages, nor other facilities to allow for longer retention of freshness...

I am only 30km (20 miles) away from the border to Costa Rica. I thought, heck, let me go there to fill up my car. In Austria they call that phenomenon "fuel tourism", which happens when gas prices in Germany and Austria differ significantly...

Well, all went well until about 5km before the border. There, some hoodlooms blocked the intermericana. As it turns out, they allow you to pass if you pay them 20$ per car. Great business! Simply throw a few old tires on the road, cut a few of your neighbors' trees and voila: 20$ per car!

Well, we (my neighbor Sergio, who cam with me, and I) decided to simply park the car, walk across the blockage, and hop on a bus beyond. There were about 10 buses already waiting there (as were on our side). All the people who need to travel between the Frontera or Puerto Armuelles and Bugaba or David have to get off their bus, walk across the blockage and hop on another bus on the other side to continue their trip.

We took our gas canisters with us, and filled them at the one gas station at the border, who seems to get supplied from Costa Rica. However, they limit the amount to 15$ per person. So our two 15 Liter canisters weren't even filled all the way. Then back on a bus, back to the blockage, shlepp the canisters across to our car, and return home... Luckily, I still have 1/2 a tank of gas, so I can make another one of these trips in a few days if needed...

It occurred to me, that this is a perfect example of what happens when people only think of themselves: everybody suffers! All the little mom-no-pop businesses along the road: closed. Gas stations: closed. Schools: closed. All the people that are day laborers: out of work, out of income. Many people here live basically from hand in mouth: so no income for a day, often means no food on the table that day! (except plain rice, and whatever grows in the back yard)

This is going on for two weeks now. It used to be peaceful. Now it is turning violent. Last night, a police truck was set on fire in Santiago (the capital of Veraguas). Today, Senafront (border protection police) was sent there in riot gear to help the local police.

The government has instituted a fuel subsidy. When filling up the car, you simply provide the license plate and your cedula number (personal id), and you pay less than a dollar per liter - the government pays the rest. With that, the original demand of the indigenous is met - in a way that's quite amazing to me! Non of the European countries has come up with a similar idea! The government first asked people to register on a website, but the indigenous often don't have access to the internet. This requirement since has been removed, and providing the cedula and licenseplate number is sufficient.

Imagine this! This developing country's government is able to put up a website in one day (!!!) - how long did it take the "developed countries" to develop the covid websites? A month? two? And, since that requirement fell, they are able to implement a system, where this subsidy is possible without the previous registration! Very impressive, I have to say!

Anyhow, I am curious to see how this situation is going to develop, how long it is going to take for it to be resolved, and how it is going to be resolved...