Wednesday, January 10, 2024

Our Hostal Un Mundo is getting close to be ready…

Slowly, step by step, the hostal in Santa Catalina is getting further and further ahead. Yeay!

We finished tiling the kitchen a few days ago. Iris is now grouting the last little areas. Then applying the sealer, and the kitchen and dining room is ready. 

Iris the chef is also an expert in grouting by now!

My dear friend Nancy had bequested her dining table to me, and it came from the US with the container with my household goods in September.

our first guests at breakfast

I’m still working on a rustic bench, built from rough-sawn teak and cedro wood. My tablesaw and other tools came with my household goods, too. It feels so nice to be able to work with wood again!

The dorm room is also ready. I built the beds, we bought the mattresses and carried them home on the roof-rack, and Iris put the sheets and towels… 

It is a rather small space, but mattresses are good ones, and sheets, too.

We hope folks will enjoy our hospitality


We are ready for guests. Only the outside needs to still be worked on. But, that will get done in time as well…

A few days ago, I noticed a young couple in front of the restaurant, with their backbags at their feet. It was already late at night, and they appeared not to know where to go. I went outside to chat a little with them. Turned out, my impression was right - they where stranded without accommodations. They had a tent, but to find a spot to put it up in the night is rather difficult. So I offered them to stay with us for the night. 

Our first guests

They were very glad and we got a chance experience how it feels to have people stay in our home. We had a wonderful time with them! 


They reaffirmed for me that the idea and concept is good and needed:


Hostal Un Mundo

One World - One Planet - One people

A meeting-spot for open minded, caring spirits from all over the planet!

Monday, January 8, 2024

Gotchas of Panamanian buildings - worst practices

In every industry, over time, best practices are developed and defined. The builders in Panama, however, seems to not have adopted much of what’s common practice in other countries. Well, there are two types of builders: the large construction firms that build skyscrapers, and the little guys who build homes by hand.

I have no idea about the large construction firms, I’m taking about the little guys. 

Many of the little farmers can not survive off their farm and are subsidizing their income by working in construction. Everybody out in the country seems to know how to work with concrete. Many know how to weld, or do plumbing, or electrical installations.
They have learned by watching and assisting somebody else, and then just doing it often. They never got proper training, or schooling about the theory.  They do as well as they know how!

At the same time, most people here don’t have a large enough income to be able to afford hiring a firm to build their homes. Instead, they save up a little money and buy some sand and rocks and a couple of blocks and bags of cement, and build as far as their material reaches. Then they wait until they have more money, to do the next.

As a consequence, work is performed in a way that is the least costly, and the easiest to perform.

My personal most feared “worst practices” are these:

Anywhere you go in the country you’ll find a trashcan next to the toilet bowl into which you’re supposed to place the used toiletpaper. you should not throw the paper into the toilet, as you’re used to do in europe, the US or similar countries. the reason for this is, that the drain pipes are sometimes too small and most of the times don’t have the correct declination. if that pipe is too steep (more than 3cm per m, 1” per 3 ft) or too shallow (less than 2cm per m, 3/4” per 3ft), the solids tend to get stuck. With paper it clogs the pipe frequently. Worst practice: drain pipes incorrect declination.
Declination of drain pipes does often not follow best practices, but rather the terrain


In my house I put extra care and effort to ensure the pipes have the right declination. So toiletpaper can be flushed down without problems! 
Also, I ensured that for every pipe there’s easy access for a snake tool,in case the pipe does get clogged for any reason at any time.

Electrical wires are color coded. White is neutral, bare or green is ground, and black (red, blue, or yellow) are phases. In local homes (and businesses as well) you often find cables used not according to their color. That makes troubleshooting very difficult and dangerous!

In this box, the leaving cable uses white for hot and red for neutral!

In my house I took great care that wires are used with the correct color coding. 
Also, I made sure in every junction-box and the breaker-box every wire is labeled with the circuit it belongs to. Again, to make maintenance and troubleshooting easier, should there ever be a problem, or the need to extend the system.


The floor in walk-in showers are supposed to decline towards the drain. Often it doesn’t, so there’s always a puddle on the floor. Over time that part of the floor gets grimy and slippery. 

In my house I had the mason adjust the subflooring multiple times, until there was the right declination in the whole bathroom! Also, I selected tiles that don’t get slippery when wet. That way slip-and-fall accidents are less likely.

There are more issues I noticed. I might add some more at another time… For now, these are the most annoying, and the easiest avoidable issues…

Sunday, January 7, 2024

Gotchas of Panamanian buildings - architecture and the basics

 New acquaintances happen to start building their home here in Panama, actually, not too far from my house. I started telling them about various aspects about the local architecture and building practices. then I realized, it might be interesting and helpful to others as well. so I decided to blog about the gotchas I encountered…

Here you go! The first installment. More to come…

The local architecture has two styles: the local style and the foreigners style. Both are, in my view, flawed, as they don’t take the climate and environmental problems into account.

First, the style for foreigners:

On first sight, the homes built for foreigners are lovely! But, after careful examination, the beauty turns out to be just skin-deep! 

typical house for foreigners - US architecture, solving problems they have there, but ignoring problems and benefits we have here

Essentially, the architecture is just copied from the US. There are specific problems that are addressed by the designs. However, these problems don’t exist here! In the US you need your home to protect you from very low temperatures in the winter and very high temperatures in the summer. Also, tornadoes are possible in almost the whole country. 

Here in Panama, the temperatures are always the same, and it rarely reaches the 90’s C (upper 30’s F). So you don’t need protection from the temperatures! Also, except in some special places, wind is not a problem. There are no tornados, here, nor hurricanes!

Here, you can be outside all the time, except for sleeping. So, with a house where all livingspace is indoors, isolated from the rest of the world, you’re missing out on the best part of living in Panama - living outside!

What’s worse, though, is, that this architecture does not offer a solution for the environmental problems typical for here: lots of sun and rain, and always super high humidity of the air, unreliable electricity and water supply. To fix the lack of consideration of these topics in the design, super large air-conditioning and dehumidifying systems are installed. In addition of being locked away from the fresh air, you’re subjected to constant noise, and high electricity bills! 

I’m trying a different architecture, that takes the local problems into consideration, and maximizes the benefits of living in a tropical location. (More on that later…)

But before that, the local style:

They dig some ditches where the walls are going to be to create a foundation for them. The sewer pipes are laid. And the walls put on top of the foundation. On top of the walls cariolas are being placed and welded onto the rebars sticking out of the concrete. The sheet metal roof is screwed onto these cariolas.

First problem: the foundation. Much of the land is covered with fertile, black soil. that soil doesn’t carry load well, easily shifts due to much water during the rainy season and lack of water during the dry season, and from the relatively frequent, although weak, earthquakes.

As a result, many buildings have cracks in the walls, or are starting to hang a little over time.

My attempt to address the problem is to use a bed of cracked stones, similar to the beds of railroad tracks. On top of that, I poured a 20 cm thick concrete slab, onto which I built the walls and placed the posts that carry the roof.  First of all, water easily finds its way through this bed of rocks, secondly I placed drainage pipes all around to ensure there’s never much water getting there in the first place. But, should anything underneath there shift a little, the rocks distribute the load and cover for the uneven load-bearing quality of the ground underneath.

Using 10 cm wide blocks to build a form for the concrete slab on top of 20 cm crushed stones

laying the rebar mesh and placing the cariola frames for the doors so everything is nicely connected with the slab

pouring the concrete slab - Iris working like the men!

Walls on top of the slab. Two rooms with a bathroom each and the connecting wall that separates the kitchen from the back terrace. On the left, forms for poured concrete corner columns are visible

Welding together the cariola structure that will hold the sheetmetal to form the roof

The basic structure is done! The roof is also almost finished, it protects the rooms and the big terrace that is the living room, dining room and kitchen. Living in and with nature, not isolated and separated from it!


Next problem: the walls. The walls are build with 10cm thick concrete blocks, which have three holes to be filled with concrete once the block is in position. Aside of some of the workers not using “plomos” to make sure the wall is really vertical, most use their “palaustre” (heart shaped trowel) to push the concrete down in the holes and compact it. These tools, however, are too wide to go all the way to the bottom of the block. As a result, usually the blocks have concrete on top, but a hollow space filled with air in the bottom. 

typical block wall, space for columns on side of doors nicely visible. Hole in block to be filled with concrete visible well, too.


The building code requires all corners and the sides of all windows and doors to be solid concrete columns, build through forms, not blocks, and with rebars enforced. And on top of the windows and doors, and the top 30 cm of all walls are supposed to be solid concrete beams, too - also built with forms and rebar enforced. Those parts should take the load, so even though the walls are mostly air, the house should not crumble. But, “should” isn’t good enough for me! I want to be sure. So i asked - and fought during the whole wall building process - that the helpers use rebar sticks to ensure the holes in the blocks are filled with compacted concrete all the way to the bottom.

Third problem: the heat and humidity. The roof gets very hot from the sun.VERY hot! T
here is no space between roof and wall, so all that heat is absorbed by the concrete. Even as the temperatures fall during the night, it is always hot in these houses! The sun heats up the house during the day, the concrete keeps it hot during the night! The lack of decently sized windows and the fact that the local style sliding windows only open half, doesn’t really help the situation.

Also, due to the super high humidity all the time, when there’s standing air, there’s very quickly mold and mildew. All the mold-resistant paint in the world is not a working solution. Keeping fans running in every room for 24 hours a day helps, but uses a lot of energy!

My attempt to tackle the problem with the humidity is by having many big windows, which can be opened all the way. That way, there’s always a breeze in the room - even without fan. No mold, nor mildew! And feels cooler, too!

To reduce the heat in the house, I have a pretty large crawlspace between the sheet metal roof and the wooden ceiling of the rooms. There’s no wall above the rooms, so air can circulate and move freely. Middle school physics says, hot air rises.. Alright, the air that gets heated up under the sheetmetal can freely leave that space, and cooler air can move in. that crawlspace never gets really hot! And, wood being a good insulator, the wooden ceiling - even though only 2cm (3/4”) thick, ensures that the room, nor the walls that makeup the room, never get really hot.


note the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof, and the big windows 

I got the confirmation that this works already while building: several of the workers mentioned on various occasions that it so nice to work in the house because it is  not so hot, as in their homes…


The best part about living in this tropical place is, that you can be outside all day. There’s nothing nicer than hearing the birds, the wind in the trees, the rain gushing down, to feel the breeze, to always breath fresh air!

The architecture I think is ideal for here is a home that most of all has a big terrace under a roof. The roof keeps you dry when it’s raining, and its shade protects you from the sun. There are bedrooms and bathrooms that are wrapped in walls, but they, too, are well connected with the outside through doors and  large windows that are protected by insect-netting and can be left open almost all the time.


large terrace serves as living room, dining room, and kitchen

rain water is collected and provides the water for showers, toilets, and kitchen as well (filtered for drinking purposes). Stored in a higher altitude tank water supply works even during power-outages

Large windows in the bedrooms ensure the air in the room is always moving, reducing if not eliminating problems with mold and mildew


This house needs no air-conditioning, no dehumidifier, is independent of the public watersupply, and reduces the negative impact of the frequent power outages. By adding PV panels and a larger battery, the house can be completely independent from the public power-supply as well. 

You basically live in your garden - paradisical!


Update: just saw an advertisement for a house, which is built in typical architecture:

Typical house for local middle-class. Interestingly, the add is in english, implying they are trying to address foreigners, too…


Look at how small the windows are, and remember, this type doesn’t open all the way; only one half slides in front of the other one. There’s no air circulation at all in this house! Can you imagine how hot that house gets when there’s a power outage! It’s a baking-oven!

Friday, November 24, 2023

Finding excuse to not have to work…

 As I’m getting older I seem to have less and less energy. I already felt the onset when I was trying to renovate the house in Wilmington all by myself, in an attempt to proof to my then wife how much I cared about her. Well, she didn’t get the message… And i blew, it seems, my last reserve of energy…

Today, I’m working on building two houses here in Panama. And it’s getting harder and harder to get going every morning… 

The house in Chiriquí is about 4 to 5 weeks of work (with hired workers) away from being able to be put on the market. I’m hoping some nice folks to have as neighbors will find it, and enjoy the very unique architecture features and serene country setting, up high enough to have warm (not hot) days and cool nights. Despite the materials and labor costs having risen quite a bit over the last year and a half, I’m still thinking of being able to sell it for 150K - much less than the usual homes suitable for foreigners.

Backside of the house, as seen from the street

Huge terrace - the living room, dining room, and kitchen all at once

Guapo, my trusted worker. Front view of the house

Well, first I need to get it finished, though. And for that I need to get back to Chiriquí…


Currently, we’re in Santa Catalina, Veraguas. one of the best surf spots in Panama. Iris‘ house is really close to being able to make use of it. Really close, but not yet quite there…


Iris - family outing with dogs at playa estero

skin and bones! no matter how much I eat

Happy to take few hours off

Due to the countrywide protests it’s even more difficult to get materials and workers, as movement is very restricted. So I’m forced to try to work on my own…

I’m supposed to tile the livingroom/kitchen, sonIris can do the grouting. And I’m trying to build out one room upstairs, so we have a lockable space to store tools, materials, and other household stuff.


This morning, though, i woke up with the desire to bake Vanille Kipferl - one of the many traditional Austrian Christmas cookies. Iris encouraged me, too, to bake. She always seems to know what i really would like tondo, and asks me to do that. So, today, i baked these cookies, that used to be my longtime favorite sweets around christmas.

We bought a new stove last year. A mid-level style, I guess, as it was not cheap and also not one of the expensive ones. However, it doesn’t have convection fan. Nor does it have upper heat, but only from the bottom. the dial gives temperature ranges, just to make it even more challenging! 

However, given this stove and the fact i haven’t baked Vanille Kipferl in probably decades, they turned out  bastante bien (quite well). 

Proof of that is the fact that for desert at lunch we devoured already 1/2 of what I made!

what a delicious excuse to not have to tile… 😇😝🤪

Vanille Kipferl


Saturday, November 4, 2023

Mining Protests - Part 3: My take

One reason i chose Panama to retire at was that it’s politically the most stable country in the 15 degrees north to 15 degrees south belt around the earth. I’m starting to wonder if this was an accurate assessment.

Yes, it has no military - so no military coup likely. Yes, the elections seem fair, and the handoff of power seems to function well, too. (not like lately in the US!)

But…

The understanding within the population of how democracy works is very - hm - “immature”!
At this time, there’s a repeat of the problems we had last year, when the indigenous blocked the interamerican highway, and every organization who wanted something joined in. At the end there were plenty hoodlums among the blockaders, who simply saw it as easy way to make money: charge those who wanted to pass a few $, and turn these funds straight into booze…

After 5 (!) weeks, finally, the road opened again and the blockaders returned to their homes and jobs.


That situation last year pointed at a big problem that Panama has, that’s made up of three facts: 
  • firstly, almost all the fresh food is produced in Chiriquí, the western most province close to Costa Rica. 
  • Secondly, the gasoline enters the country in Colon - a port on the caribbean coast, about an hour north of Panama City. 
  • And thirdly, the only connection between Chiriquí (plus Bocas del Torro, the touristy caribbean coast) and the rest of the country (including Panama City) is the interamerican highway!
The Chinese offered the country to build a railroad, but Panama didn’t want to get completely dependent on China and passed. The europeans could build it as easily and at much less risk for the country - but they are too busy fighting amongst themselves to see the opportunity. and the americans? well, they have no idea about how to build a train line - which they’ve proven with their accela line between Boston - New York City - Washington (which they should have named “deccela”, as it “accels” as much as the german democratic republic was democratic).

Well, Panama has one single road connecting the whole country. And when that road is blocked for whatever reason, no fresh food gets to the eastern provinces, and no gasoline gets to Chiriquí and Bocas! 

I though, the people learned something from that experience last year. Everybody in the country was suffering! 
But, apparently they didn’t suffer enough to learn the lesson! 


About two weeks ago, the union SUNTRACS - Syndico Unico Nacional de Trabajadores de Industria de Construcción y Similares - played sorcerer’s apprentice and called their members to block access to all ports and airports until their demands are met. They also invited and encouraged all other organizations to join their protest. Now, everybody and their grandmother is back on the streets blockading amongst other things the interamerican highway. That includes the indigenes of the mountains between east and west. And, as last year, there is no fresh food in the eastern provinces including Panama City, and there is no gasoline in Chiriquí!

The people in Panama do not understand the difference between protests - a great tool within a democracy - and riots. Protests are a firm, strong but peaceful message to the country’s leaders. What they are doing is violating everybody’s freedom to move, and removing everybody’s access to food and gasoline. Basically, those who are trying to move about for whatever reason are kept hostage at wherever spot they got stuck on their journey!

Yes, there are no burning cars, (almost) no clashes between police and protestors, no shots fired, no people killed. 

For now, at least.

Last year showed, that as the mess drags on and some people’s livelihood start to get seriously challenged, emotions start to flare up. Last year we saw several incidents where fights broke out between blockaders and blocked folks. 

I heard of one incident, where a pickup truck broke through a blockade driving over some blockaders who tried to prevent them from getting ahead by staying in front of the car. The driver said the blockaders started destroying his car and he got afraid of his life, so he pushed through, trying to get away from the angry mob.

Let’s see how much longer until we start seeing such violence again…

The initiators of the protests did an excellent job in spinning the situation in a way that everybody now believes it is a matter of defending the country against a foreign power who’s trying to create a situation similar to the american occupation of the canal zone. That was such a big issue to the panamanians, and it cost several people’s lives to get the US to leave. Anything that looks even remotely like a similar situation gets everybody to see red.

The sorcerer’s apprentice SUNTRACS called upon the indigenous spirits, now these spirits can’t be quiescenced anymore. And the regular population happily joins in, waving flags of the country, holding signs “for our country. for our future”.



Just like in the US, ignorance and lack of education of the general population makes this a very, very difficult situation to resolve. People don’t have the ability to understand the bigger pictures. So they don’t understand what those who do understand are trying to explain to them.Granted, those who do (or should) see the bigger picture do an as poor job in explaining as one can do! But, nobody wants to listen anyhow, it seems, as everybody is drunk of the “our country is in grave danger” coolaid the populists have fed them…

You can’t get blood out of stone. But if people don’t understand (and don’t want to understand!) what a stone is, there’s not much hope! Is there?

I am very curious:

How this will develop and eventually end?

When will normalcy return to our tranquil life? (we already can not offer all we usually offer at the restaurant, as produce isn’t to be found. And as it drags on it’s going to get harder and harder to offer anything except pepperoni pizza). 

And what are the overall casualties going to be? (the canadian mining company lost 50% of its value within a week. How do they continue? How badly will the loss of the majority party be in next year’s election? Will the president step down? How much will the tourism industry decline due to people no longer considering Panama as a safe destination? Will the number of new foreign retirees decline? How much will the safety rating of the country for foreign investments decline? And probably many more factors, that I haven’t even thought about or noticed yet…)


Thursday, November 2, 2023

Mining Protests - Part 2: getting caught up in the mess

The same Thursday that SUNTRACS issued the call for blocking the ports and airports, my beloved Prius arrived in the port of Colón. Due to the blockades, the car couldn’t get picked up from the port until 9 days later. which meant, i had to pay additional storage fees to the port, as the car was there longer than what is usual and included in the freight price.

Also, it meant, we had to drive to Panama City to pick it up from the public parking outside the customs broker’s office. It seemed too risky to just leave it sitting there without license plate until all this is over. So we decided to try to get there from Santa Catalina, Veraguas. We didn’t have to use the stretch of the interamerican highway from Chiriquí to Veraguas. And there seemed to be less going on from here to the city.

Well, that was a wrong assessment! 

First all went well. But after 200 of the 350 km to Panama City, we got stuck at a blockade 10 km before Penonome. Smarty pants that i think I am I check google maps about a side road that might get us around the blockade. And I found one! But it simply skipped the line of waiting cars and led directly to the blockage. So I turned around and tried another side road off the side road we were on. The gravel road quickly turned into a muddy path used usually only by agricultural equipment leading into the fields, further and further away from the interamerican highway!

parts mudslides, parts two tracks with ridge with vegetation between them and full of deep puddles

After about 10 km on such paths and one hour of driving, we finally reached a gravel road again, then an asphalted one, and found ourselves in Penonome! Yeay!

Funny side-story: a local guy had followed me all the way through the fields. He got stuck once in a deep puddle that he tried to tackle differently from me. He honked, and I waited for him. He turned on the 4-wheel drive of his pickup, and was able to get out of his difficult position. When i stopped to check the map again as we reached the asphalted road, he passed me and gave me a thumbs up…

Penonome is 150 km from Panama City. I thought we’re ok now. But, just 30 km later, the next blockade! This time no path around it to be found on google - not even one like before. However, I found a way to make it to El Valle de Anton, on a gravel road reaching one of those roads that lead off the interamerican into the mountains.

We stayed for the night at the Bodhi hostal - the same hostal that I stayed in in June 21, and where I was pointed to the Bodhi hostal in Santa Catalina, where I then met Iris. So, I was happy to show her part of our history that was just before we met…

We set our alarms to wake up at 2:00 am to try to make our way to Panama City during the night, hoping people will be at home sleeping, rather than on the roads waving flags and partying.

And so it was: we reach Panama City by 5:00 am, without hitting any more problems. 

That day, we bought all the items on our list, that are not available outside of the city, picked up the car, and had a wonderful indian dinner. 

The next morning, we’d leave early in the morning again, we decided…


Mining Protests - Part 1: what’s happening

One of the largest copper mines in the world happens to be in a very remote area off the caribbean coast of Panama. In1996 a panamanian company got the license to create this mine. Mining is an industry where scale matters very much. So, in 2013, they merged with (resolved into, were taken over by) a canadian mining company. The original contract granted Panama 35 million $ in royalty per year. In 2009, lawsuits were filed against this contract, saying it was unconstitutional as it does not benefit Panama enough. By 2018 the supreme court ruled the law on which the contract is based is unconstitutional. Such rulings are usually not retroactive but only going forward…

In March 2023 the government and the mining company agreed on a new contract, giving Panama more than 10 times the money, and more concessions for Panama. The government voted positively on the law, and the president signed it into law shortly thereafter. 

To find more details on this background, check out Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cobre_mine,_Panama?wprov=sfti1#

Some people didn’t like this, however. Some NGOs don’t like mines, period. Some of the opposition think it’s still not enough for Panama. The powerful construction workers’ union SUNTRACS, for reasons i am not sure of, opposes it, too, and called upon its members to block the ports and airports until this law is annulled. They started the slogan “Panama is not for sale!”. And they asked everybody else to join in the fight.

On 22nd or 23rd of October SUNTRACS started blockades. Within a few days, the slogan resonated with large portions of the population, and everybody joined the blockades. Families with children showed up, people brought firewood and large cauldrons to cook food. Signs read: “For panama! For our future!”

Different to typical democratic protests, people didn’t just block part of the roads, but all lanes. neither did they block just for stretches of time, and then letting traffic through for a while, and blocking again. Instead, they kept the blockages all day until late into the night; some even day and night!


blockages between Chiriquí and Veraguas

For most of the length of Panama there’s only one single road - the interamerican highway. From it, roads lead up into the mountains, or down to the coast. But, most of them basically dead ends. So, for much of the whole length of the country, there’s  no alternative route possible. Consequently, when that single highway is blocked, there’s no east-west traffic whatsoever! 

Most of the fresh food is grown in the western province of Chiriquí. Virtually all the gas enters the country through Colón - a port city on the caribbean coast, an hour’s drive north of Panama City, at about the center of Panama. When the interamerican highway is blocked for any reason anywhere along the way, Chiriquí gets no more gasoline, diesel, and gas. And the rest of the country plus Panama City get no fresh vegetables and fruits.

And this is what’s happening now. The produce is overripening on the fields, all the roads are empty in Chiriquí as there’s no gasoline to fuel agricultural equipment, nor cars, nor buses. In the rest of the country, the vegetable and fruit stands on the side of the roads are closed, and the fresh produce isles in the grocery stores are empty - totally empty! Such a weird view! Quite scary, to be honest…

As of today, 2nd of November 2023, there’s no saying how long this will continue, and where it all will lead…

Water problems

We tried to fill the new reserve water tank today. It filled well. But, a few minutes later the tank toppled over! foundation not level and/...